Setting up rappel device for double rope rappel duration.
Auto block on double rope rappel.
French prusik knot auto block rappel backup duration.
A 5 5mm sewn rope sling made with technora aramid core and nylon sheath.
In a multi pitch rappel setting this decreases the likelihood of ropes getting stuck and provides the security of a closed system.
The autoblock knot an easy to tie friction knot or hitch that is tied around a climbing rope with a thin length of cord is used as a safety back up knot when you re rappelling.
It needs to be short enough so it can t get caught in the belay device which would render it useless.
How to use an auto block to backup your rappel.
The knot is the best back up simply because it does two jobs exceedingly well.
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Use the lower hand to feed the rope up through the belay device while the top hand moves the auto block down the rope so it doesn t tighten.
It is unique in that it is a fully certified 22kn sling that can be used anywhere a normal sling is used.
Designed for use as an auto block knot prusik on single or double ropes to protect you on rappel or aid in ascending the rope in emergency.
Auto block resistance belaying a second high friction in auto block mode plagued all the devices capable of double rope rappels especially the smart alpine.
It locks under load and unlike all other friction knots it releases while still under load.
We observed less resistance with some of the single strand devices however in our testing with a 9 5 mm sterling rope and a petzl attache carabiner we found the resistance with the.
Set it up correctly.
For those just starting with any type of rock climbing including rappelling remember the following basics.
At the bottom or the next anchor call off rappel to your belayer.
Presenter darrell weston videographer matt blecharz.
One of the most common mistakes is the failure to capture both strands of a double rope rappel in the rappel device.
Auto block tubular belay devices have an additional metal loop on the side.
Basics to keep in mind.
An auto block is a rappel backup or a third hand meaning if you get knocked unconscious or lose control of the rope it will tighten up and keep you from plummeting downward.
